Friday, January 31, 2014


The weather in Puerto Rico is significantly different than that ESE of here.   We have had rain 2 to 3 times since we came in 24 hours ago.  It's also odd that there are such a limited number of marinas.  We are at the only "public" marina in the city.  The marina office didn't open till after 10am - you can ignore the 8:30am on the sign.  Tom, Brianna, and I took a taxi into Old San Juan around noon and toured the majestic Fort El Moro (see photos).  The fort was on our left as we entered the San Juan harbor and will be on our right tomorrow morning when we leave.  We walked over 2 or 3 fairly major highways this morning to get to the Pueblo supermarket where we got our last provisions for the next several days.  Brianna left at about 3:30 to catch her plane back to Baltimore (brrrr).  We will certainly miss her and I'm only hoping we can survive on the cooking of the remaining 3 old "salts".  Time will tell but I'm sure we could all survive for several days on what we have gained in weight.  The winds for the next 3 days look a little stronger than normal - East, 20 to 30.  The night sailing will be "fun".   Will likely not post again until we get to Providenciales on Turks and Caicos. 

Thursday, January 30, 2014


Woke up to a rain storm around 6 am.  Got clothes off the lifelines and closed up the boat but it only lasted for 15 minutes.  Left the anchorage at around 9am and didn't get into San Juan till around 5:30pm, making this the longest sailing day yet.  Had the biggest seas yet with swells averaging 6 or 7 feet with infrequent 9 or 10 footers.  As we rounded the fort into Old San Juan, we were hit with a downpour and squall just as we were taking down the mainsail.  By the time we got to the marina, it had cleared up.  Since the marina closed at 5, we ended up staying on one of the T heads.   Had dinner at the Sizzler steak house overlooking the marina.

Since Brianna departs tomorrow at around 6, we plan to tour the city tomorrow.  Captain Phil, Tom, and I will leave early Saturday morning for a 3 day, two night sail to the Turks and Caicos.  

Wednesday, January 29, 2014


Anchored in a not so sheltered cove in Endanada Bay on Culebra last night.  Had lots of wind overnight but the wave action made it a fairly good anchorage.   It was surprising to come in and see 10 or 15 boats anchored with no shelter but the reef on the south side of the entrance.  Was lots of noise but the best night sleep I've had yet.

This morning we were up before 7 and after our first "light" breakfast.  Weighed anchor at around 8:30 and were off for my longest (in a day) sail yet - about 45 miles.  It's funny because that's my average distance single handing on the bay.  Of course, I usually start out before 7 and sail till 4 or 5.   We sailed to a small island just off Fajardo.  It is the largest town on the east end of Puerto Rico and the place where Joan and I caught the ferry to Culebra two years ago.  In fact, we can see the ferry landing from where we are anchored.  There were lots of wrecked boats of all sizes all over the island.  The place looks a bit of an eye sore.  It appears they are still recovering from some recent hurricane.   We dropped the dinghy and went for a ride around the island - looking for some good snorkeling. It was refreshing to get in the water but the visibility was very poor. 

Tomorrow, it's on to San Joan where we will be staying in a marina.

Tuesday, January 28, 2014


Around noon two days ago, I got a call that my Dad who lives in Florida had been rushed to the hospital in a coma.  The gardener had just spoken with him an hour before so finding him was some kind of divine intervention - thank you God.  My sister hopped on a plane from Pheonix and arrived yesterday at 3pm.  By the time she got to the hospital, Dad was conscious and talking.  That was a blessing.  But the doctors concluded from the MRI that he had a 2 brain tumors that caused the seizures.  He is doing better but more tests to  come.  Please pray for him.

Yesterday  broad reached  from the East end of St. Johns back to Charlotte Amalie.  We were in 20 to 25 knot trades with 7' swells when one of the previous repairs in a steering cable let go.  Luckily, Fred (the Pintita's trusted autohelm) is a direct drive to the steering quadrant so that we were able to limp back into port.  Of course, this was after some quick action by skipper and crew, we rounded up, started the engine, and tacked to a hove to position.  On a starboard tack, we motor sailed the 15 miles back to port where we dropped and anchor and re-attached the steering cable. This morning, Captain Phil purchased a couple more clamps that should hold the remainder of the trip. 

Today, it's onto Culebra at the east end of PR.

Sunday, January 26, 2014


Left Jost Van Dyke early - but not too early to have some great French toast for breakfast.  Broad  reached  SW to the cut between the west end of Tortola and the east end of St. John.  Had a great view into Soppers hole (West End) where I remember clearing customs 25 years ago when chartering.  Sailed south along the east end of St. John, rounded the point on the SE corner and jibed over to a broad reach into Hansen Bay.  This was our original (3 days ago) first day destination.  Was sure glad we made it because it is a beautiful anchorage with good shelter.  We are not in but are adjacent to the National Park.   Snorkeled in the afternoon and had another fantastic meal, thanks to Bri.  See Photo page for shots from the last 3 days.

It's Wednesday, 2/26.  We were up this morning at 6:30, fixed coffee and took on water (Pintita holds about 200 gallons and we take on about a hundred every 3 or 4 days - with 4 people on board).  We had a nice breakfast and got underway around 9am.  We motored out toward Ft. Sumter and then headed north into the ICW.  As we did, one of the more interesting events of the trip began to unfold.  A good size tug pushing a small barge was gaining on us from the rear.  We assumed he was going somewhere else but started getting nervous the closer he got.  When he was about a hundred yards behind us, we radioed him and he told us that he, too, was going up the ICW.  He wanted to pass us before entering the narrow cut and told us that about 3 miles into the cut, he expected that we both would be running aground since the area was known for severe shoaling - we both drew 6'.  We followed him up the canal and soon, another tug with a larger barge came up from behind us.  We were now sandwiched in between two VERY large vessels with very little room to maneuver.  The tug/barge behind us asked to pass us and we obliged.  As he began to pass, the barge in front of us ran aground and stopped. We quickly stopped and were a little fearful of being run over by the one still behind. The three of us ended up spending about an hour, from 10:30am to 11:30am maneuvering around trying to get off the shoals all over the channel.  We exchanged positions in line twice with the second tug.  My video shows the two tugs jockeying around trying to break free.  Around 11am, the first tug made it through. We got off at around 11:15 and never again saw the second tug (who drew 7').  It was quite an ordeal with all three captains chatting and sharing possible strategies over the VHF on channel 1. 

It has been raining lightly all day.  Thank goodness for the enclosure that is keeping us dry.  The temp is around 50 so it's a pretty miserable day.  To add to the excitement, the ICW north of Charlestown is about the most boring part of the ICW I've ever experienced - mile after mile of treeless grasslands.
 
Note: posted this 2/27

Saturday, January 25, 2014


With a week to get to Puerto Rico (from St. Thomas), we developed a cruising plan last night.  The plan was to go from St. Thomas to the SE end of St. John where there is an underwater national park.  From there, we would sail to the West end of Tortolla to Soppers hole.  Then on 1/26, we would sail north to Jost Van Dyke. The next day would be back to St. Thomas for the night and then to Calebra - one of the Spanish Virgin Islands at the east end of Puerto Rico.  An overnight there on the 28th, to the east end of Puerto Rico on the 29th and then on to San Juan on the 30th.  Bri is flying home from Puerto Rico on the 31st. 

We left St. Thomas at around 10am this morning after a provisioning run.  We sailed on a close reach to the SE for about 15 miles and then tacked back to toward St. John.  Around 1pm, the wind picked up to around 20 and we reefed the main.  Around 1:30, it picked up another 5 knots and we furlled the jib (never did set the mizzen).  With only a reefed main and staysail, we were headed into the East end of St. Thomas and with rain setting in, we decided to pull into and drop anchor (mooring ball) at the east end behind Great St. James Island.  That was the right move since it rained on the way in and during our first hour at anchor.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014


Made it to Baltimore without much trouble.  Snowed till around 10pm with accumulations to about 8".   Temps overnight dropped to below 10 making cleaning off the car a pain.  Picked Tom up at 5:10am and then drove to the airport with Joan's brother in law Robert.  Luckely, our flight was on time (thank you Southwest).  The plane took a flightpath down the western side of the Bay that enabled Tom and I to see every river off the western shore, Norfolk, the Dismal Swamp, the sounds of North Carolina, as well as Beaufort and Cape lookout bight. 

Got into San Juan at 2 (a little late), got bags and onto the Seaborne puddle jumper to St. Thomas.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Well, it's T = minus 1.  The good news is I'm packed and ready for Joan to pick me up in an hour for the drive down to Baltimore.  The bad news is the worst snow storm of the year began this morning and is scheduled to be over at around midnight tonight.  Joan cancelled her appointments tomorrow morning and plans to leave Baltimore early in the morning for the drive back.  I'll be riding to the airport with Tom Hosford (Pintita crew member) in the morning.  I wonder what the chances will be of a delay in the flights tomorrow.